In any other place, Little Cottonwood Canyon would see hordes of people in the summer. Minutes from Downtown Salt Lake City and home to lodges and lakes, waterfalls and wildlife, this winding, two-lane road (SR-210) that rises over 4,100 feet in just under twelve miles is eerily quiet after the ski lifts stop spinning at Alta Ski Area and Snowbird.
But that’s when the magic begins.
As the temperatures rise and the snows melt, wildflowers carpet the slopes of the famed ski resorts. The Aerial Tram at Snowbird shuttles people to the top of Hidden Peak to peer into a technicolored Mineral Basin on the other side before they start their long walk (or short tram ride) back to the base. For most visitors to Little Cottonwood, Snowbird’s summer camps, alpine coasters, and its popular Oktoberfest are the marquee attractions. However, as with most places in Utah, its natural features are what draw people and keep them coming back.
So, Where’s This Magic?
From July through September, the best sunrises and sunsets on the Wasatch Front are best enjoyed from the top of Little Cottonwood. Bold claim, indeed, but as summer temperatures top 80, 90 and occasionally beyond in Salt Lake Valley, they’re reliably 10-15 degrees cooler on the footpath to Catherine’s Lake. For those venturing out early or late, bring a jacket.
Numerous trails cascade down the sides of the narrow canyon, but one of the best and arguably underutilized for its location begins at the Alta Summer Road at Albion Basin. Park at the kiosk before the toll road portion ($10 per car; free for hikers and mountain bikers) or head further to the Cecret Lake Trailhead. The road continues, ending at Albion Basin Campground, a site operated by the U.S. Forest Service; those with tents and RVs can reserve spots during summer months on Recreation.gov.
From the Summer Road kiosk, hikers and mountain bikers are in for a treat. Ride or walk up the gravel road. About a quarter-mile up, a trail opens from the right side. Hikers can peel off and head into the woods for approximately 100 yards towards Homerun in Albion Basin (#3 on the Alta Summer Map). This is typically one of the best areas in Little Cottonwood for wildflower viewing throughout July. In the early morning hours, hikers can watch the sun rise from behind Devil’s Castle, scattering rays of light onto dew-filled mountain bluebells and lupines.
For mountain bikers — or hikers so distracted they missed the turnoff, a common affliction — continue up the Summer Road to the Cecret Lake Trailhead. (Yes, by the grace of the Park Service, there is a restroom here!) This tamped and wide gravel section is a steady, almost two-mile climb that, at over 9,000 feet above sea level, will have most riders stopping at the trailhead to catch their breath, fuel up and wait for stragglers.
Turn 360 degrees and feel the canyon envelop you. Look up. Snow may still cap the higher peaks. Inhale. Breezes carry pine and spruce. Listen for the creek in the distance. Then head toward its source.
Back on the road, continue less than a mile to the Campground. Mountain bikers and hikers are permitted on the loop road here, and hikers can meander onto additional trails that branch from the back of Albion Basin [#5 and #9 on the Alta Summer Map]. After looping around the Campground, smelling the morning coffee or that evening’s supper and contemplating whether to embrace van life to move here, bikers should backtrack briefly toward the Summer Road but keep left onto the singletrack trail heading downhill and due west into Albion Basin (the trail is not marked, but if you reach the Cecret Lake Trailhead parking, you missed it).
After passing Alta Alf's Restaurant (sorry, it’s closed in summer; try the fries and garlic burgers at The Cotton Bottom instead), continue on the green, flowy singletrack trails. They are, typically, unmarked but all lead downhill.
Now, look up.
If you decide to head up the canyon after work, after vacation play, or after the kids’ nap, you may see the sun falling into the wedge-shaped crevice miles down the road in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Expletives will roll from your tongue. Tears may even fall from your eyes. And if you’ve lived here for decades or generations, you’ll wonder why it’s taken you so long to stand in this place at this moment. The Magic! Then, you’ll look around and wonder whether you stumbled somewhere you don’t belong, because there aren’t crowds, and it’s just so damn beautiful.
Take photos and share hugs, and where multiple trails meet, head right into the trees and then left back on the Summer Road (where the hikers initially turned off at the beginning).
All of this effort and excitement should be finished off in equal fashion with brunch at Alta Lodge - Alta Ski Area or dinner and drinks at nearby The Snowpine Lodge, where you can come dressed in your hiking boots and cap to share edamame dumplings on the intimate deck at The Gulch or an Iberico chop grilled to perfection at Sven’s. If you trekked out early, enjoy the post-sunrise pastries, including its absolutely decadent Skillet Bun, on its recently refreshed breakfast and brunch menu. Then, stare at the sky, the mountain, the canyon and those you care about and, if you’re lucky, shake your head and mutter, “And we live here.”
