Things to Know
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Featured winter hikes include SkyRidge Peak near Park City Mountain and Deer Valley Resort; Lower Mill D North and Donut Falls in Big Cottonwood Canyon near Brighton and Solitude Mountain Resort; and Lisa Falls in Little Cottonwood Canyon near Alta Ski Area and Snowbird.
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Additional routes highlighted are Waterfall Canyon above Ogden for Snowbasin Resort, Powder Mountain, and Nordic Valleyvisitors; Stewart Falls near Sundance Mountain Resort; the Wind Caves near Beaver Mountain; and Cedar Breaks National Monument’s winter snowshoe tours close to Brian Head Ski Resort.
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Always check the Utah Avalanche Center forecast, resort and road conditions, and individual trail stats (distance, elevation gain, difficulty, and current access) before heading out on any of these winter hikes.
I’m glad I was seated when I asked Miriam Gersdorf to list a few of her favorite winter hikes.
We originally planned to hike and chat and, of course, snack our way up a mountain, down a trail or even over a frozen waterfall, but schedules and weather patterns planted me in front of my computer furiously tapping away as Miriam set a quick pace detailing enough routes to fill more book than blog.
Tap, tap, tap…
Hiking trails are ubiquitous in Utah. From alpine forests to desert slots, trekkers have endless choices in terms of number, type, distance or difficulty available. It is impossible to visit them all, but Miriam has covered more than 500, featuring the most popular ones and hidden gems to her followers and others on Instagram (@Explore.Hike.Teach).
For skiers looking for an off-day alternative or off, off-piste adventure, some of the best trails are near Utah’s renowned resorts. So, like old pals reminiscing about their past loves, Miriam and I traded names, stories and inside scoops about a few favorites.
Park City Mountain and Deer Valley
“Give me a gorgeous one near Park City,” I quipped, as if asking for the hottest guy in high school.
“SkyRidge Peak,” she sighed.
SkyRidge Peak on the Wasatch Back near Park City Mountain is a 4.5-mile ‘out-and-back’ (go as far as you want and turn around versus a loop; round trip is 4.5 miles) trail with gorgeous views. In fact, you can see the trail from the eastern runs at Deer Valley.
Gaining only 875 feet in elevation and featuring excellent visibility and little exposure, SkyRidge Peak is considered a moderate hike that winds from the trailhead off Jordanelle Parkway to the top. As you climb, views of the Jordanelle Reservoir open up behind you, providing a cerulean-blue backdrop for your selfies. Like an 80s prom pic, you’ll want to capture this moment.
Brighton and Solitude
“The Cottonwood Canyons?” I inquired. “As long as there’s no avy danger,…” she wisely replied.
Before We Go Any Further…
As you enter Big Cottonwood Canyon – home to Brighton and Solitude – or Little Cottonwood Canyon – Alta and Snowbird – you cannot escape the large yellow signs warning of avalanche areas. All those steep slopes make for great skiing, but the patrols and professionals work hard from the first snowfall to the spring melt to keep the snow on the mountain and not over your head.
“Know Before You Go” is the mantra for risk management anywhere, anytime in Utah, but particularly in winter. Disneyland is NOT in Utah, but people don’t sit inside until summer either. Utahns and visitors are expected to understand risks and act responsibly to protect themselves AND THOSE WHO MIGHT HAVE TO RESCUE THEM. It’s not cool to be careless!
The Utah Avalanche Center monitors mountain ranges and snow packs throughout the state and provides the public with daily updates and analyses. Mountaineers, backcountry skiers and recreational hikers use the information to make informed decisions about where and when to go. Now, back to the tea on terrific trails…
Lower Mill D North
Assuming the avalanche danger is low (scale: low-moderate-considerable-high-extreme), Lower Mill D North, in Big Cottonwood Canyon (SR-190), is a beautiful winter hike. The 2.3-mile out-and-back trek climbs almost 900 feet and features a waterfall in the first quarter mile. “Moose love this trail in winter,” gushed Miriam. But give them space; they don’t like to share. Although Lower Mill D is a popular, often tamped-down trail, crampons and hiking poles are recommended for even better traction and stability on this more challenging terrain.
Donut Falls
Further down Big Cottonwood Canyon is Donut Falls, a year-round, family favorite among locals. This out-and-back trail measures 3.3 miles with only 508 feet of elevation, making it a relatively easy jaunt. The hardest part is getting the kids past the popular sledding hill next to the trailhead (spoiler: there is something better ahead). If the trail is tamped down (and it usually is), weatherproof boots are fine. Crampons, snowshoes and/or poles are recommended, but not essential.
The trail meanders past a few lucky homes, trees and snow-covered creek crossings before reaching a rope that makes getting to the falls much easier. The falls begin at a giant sign warning (summer?) hikers not to climb further.
In winter, the waterfall and slab are covered with snow, terminating at a slab with a giant hole – like a donut – at the top, allowing the waterfall to pour through the hole and into a snow cave. Tempting, but consider getting down the falls — a steep and slick ‘buttsled’ to the bottom — before climbing up, inside and down. Although not officially rated, many would consider this section moderate to difficult, even with crampons, poles or comfort with heights. The kids will have just as much fun climbing back up the rope and trekking back to the sledding hill for a few laps.
Tip: If you want a quick stop on the way down Little Cottonwood Canyon, check out Lisa Falls. This very short, 0.2-mile, out-and-back romp through the trees ends at a weeping wall, the falls. Then, turn around. The views up and down the canyon from this spot are spectacular.
Snowbasin, Powder Mountain and Nordic Valley
Miriam and I pushed on, with me shouting out resorts, and her replying with two, three or more trails.
So, when the gal who’s hiked all over Utah just mutters, “Winter, frozen, amazing!” you stop tapping on your keyboard, pull the phone closer and listen as if she were divulging how to sneak out on a Saturday night to see your favorite band without getting caught. If you’re heading to the resorts in Ogden Valley (Snowbasin, Powder Mountain and Nordic Valley), Miriam recommends — actually, urges — you to stop at the 29th Street Trailhead in Ogden, and meander up Waterfall Canyon Trail to see the giant headliner on its great winter stage.
Like stalactites hanging from above, frozen icicles and snow drifts drape the massive canyon wall from the creek above. This 2.5-mile, out-and-back trail is relatively short in distance, but with a climb reaching just over 1k, you’ll earn your Farr Better Ice Cream — my recommendation — upon your return. Check weather and avalanche reports prior to heading out.
Sundance Mountain Resort
As you pull the bar down on the Outlaw Express chairlift at Sundance, your gaze will be drawn to the right towards Mount Timpanogos, one of the iconic mountains of the Wasatch Range. Its distinctive flat top, often touching the clouds, makes it identifiable from Provo to Park City. What you can see only from this four-pack lifting visitors from the base of the resort is Stewart Falls, the multi-story waterfall dripping to gushing (depending on the season and temperature) from ol’ Timp.
Multiple trails lead to the falls, but in winter, the popular Aspen Grove trailhead is behind the closed winter gate, requiring a longer trek. Instead, head to the Solitude Nordic Center and inquire about the resort’s groomed snowshoe and cross-country trails for the best routes (and avalanche conditions), or just jump on the Outlaw Express or Red’s Lift to view Timp, Provo Canyon and the Wasatch Back from above.
Voted Most Likely to Succeed
Resorts near Salt Lake and Park City are like the popular kids in school; they’re amazing, but they get an inordinate amount of attention compared to their out-state mates, whose natural talents and smarts we rarely notice until years later. “Hey, were you always this good-looking?” Hiking trails near Beaver Mountain to the north and Brian Head to the south are the wallflowers waiting for your next dance.
Beaver Mountain
Before we even talk trails, Miriam points out that, from Salt Lake City, “It takes just as long to drive to the Uintas as Logan.” Logan is just a 90-minute drive (90 miles) on major highways from the Capitol city. On your way to Beaver Mountain (just 30 minutes further up US-89), consider a winter hike to the Wind Caves, one of Northern Utah’s more unique geologic formations and vantage points. “It’s the Donut Falls of Logan in terms of popularity…skylight arches at the top,” Miriam explains. Tricking streams, glistening icicles, eponymous winds, even hooting owls…make the Wind Caves a multi-sensory experience. This is one of the longer, steep trails, measuring 3.7 miles out-and-back and rising over 1k feet. It also, like many Utah trails, poses avalanche risk to hikers. KBYG, but when the conditions are right, it is spectacular.
Brian Head
Brian Head is the premier place to ski in Southern Utah, but Miriam encourages shredders to definitely check out its older, cooler sibling down the road. Cedar Breaks National Monument is a place so uniquely beautiful that it doesn’t seem real. Ancient hoodoos, spires, and red cliffs topped with fresh snow – Cedar Breaks is visible from several ski runs at Brian Head and accessible, in winter, from Utah Highway 143 (SR-143).
To experience it and learn more, the National Park Service offers guided snowshoe tours throughout winter. These “beginner-friendly” one-mile, 90-minute walks are offered multiple times on Fridays and Saturdays. The tour is free (snowshoes and poles are included) but must be reserved in advance. If you’re feeling more spontaneous or just want a quick peek at the end of a long ski day, park at the end of the winter road (just past Brian Head), walk just a few short steps to the viewpoint ledge. Words may escape you…until you spill the tea to another.
