I spent a week on the beach in North Carolina at one of the East Coasts best surf spots, Cape Hatteras. I grew up surfing on the Outer Banks every summer and fall so it was a little like being home. I'm a older now, but, I don't think I'll ever get over the excitement of waking with the sun and hearing the waves grinding on the beach. The sight of glassy waves stacked to the horizon will always get me running for my board and a bar of wax. The water was warm and we had a good swell coming out of the north east the whole trip. Every morning I'd drive up to the light house in Buxton and paddle out. Most mornings the air temperature was about 75 at 8 am and the water temperature was 73. Fall is the best time of year to be an east coast surfer in the OBX. Warm water and consistent swell.
Quick shout out to the good folks at Natural Art Surf Shop. They hooked me up with a great board rental (all my boards back east have either been sold or destroyed by myself and my brothers) and they come out to Utah every winter to shred. If you're on Hatteras Island and need surf related supplies, board rentals, and more stop in at Natural Art in Buxton. They'll take good care of you.
Well now that I've got some surfing out of of my system, it's time to focus on winter. I personally can't wait for that first powder day. Getting up early, throwing the truck into 4wd and punching up Big Cottonwood for a day of blower snow, fun, adventure, and friends. I'll trade the warm water for some icy cold face shots, bicep burning paddle outs for high altitude hikes. The seasons change, the stoke remains the same.